Desi Talk

www.desitalk.com – that’s all you need to know 12 BUSINESS February 2, 2024 With Rupee Beer, Two Brothers Are Trying To Put The India Back In IPA W hen brothers Van and Sumit Sharma opened Rupee Beer Company in March 2020, they understood there would be a certain expectation among American drinkers. They anticipated it when they named the brewery after the currency of their parents’ native India, de- signed the labels featuring that moniker in elegant Hindi script, and started serving it in their family’s Portland, Maine-area Indian restaurants. In fact, when the Sharmas are pouring Rupee at tastings and festivals, they hear the assumption uttered aloud. “It happens all the time,” says Sumit Sharma. “People come over and say, ‘I can’t wait to try your IPA.’” Perhaps the tipplers can be forgiven for jumping to conclusions. The IPA, short- hand for India pale ale, has long been the dominant craft beer style in the United States, guzzling a 46 percent share of dol- lar sales in the craft segment, according to Chicago-based market research firm IRI, with amber ales, seasonals and wheats tied for second with just 10 percent apiece. Odds are, if you’re in line for a craft beer anywhere in this country, it’ll be a strong, hoppy IPA. So, imagine twice the confusion when Rupee patrons sip the Sharmas’ flagship beer and taste a much lighter and less potent lager. They shouldn’t be shocked. By and large, beer drinkers in India don’t opt for IPAs; they drink lagers. The country’s most popular domestic beer is Kingfisher, a pale European-style lager in the vein of Budweiser or Heineken, which are also among India’s top-selling brands over- all. The Sharmas purposefully set out to brew a sweeter and smoother craft lager, with imported basmati rice instead of the usual barley, to complement the powerful flavors of the traditional Indian dishes on their parents’ restaurant menus. By contrast, India pale ale has virtually nothing to do with the culture and tastes of its namesake: It was a colonial British export meant for troops stationed in the jewel of their South Asian empire. For that matter, the IPAs that have recently conquered the NewWorld – both the bit- ter hop-forwardWest Coast versions that ignited the Craft Beer Revolution and the hazier, juicier New England style that has risen to power – taste nothing like those original ales that Brits shipped to the subcontinent. This misunderstanding is not lost on the Sharmas – and it also represented an opportunity. In November, to commemo- rate Diwali, the brothers released Rupee’s first India pale ale, designed to taste more like the original English ales that were shipped to the colonies. The move was partly a response to market demands and to grow the Rupee brand and portfolio. But as third-culture kids with connec- tions to both India (where their parents are from) and England (where Van was born), running a brewery in the U.S., the Sharmas also understand that they are uniquely positioned to reclaim this part of their culture. “We put the history on the can, making sure we present the beer in an impactful way,” says Van Sharma. “We’re telling the world, ‘This is Rupee,’ while also helping educate people on the history of the Brit- ish Empire.” Beer in its present state is a European innovation. The Sumerians are thought to have invented brewing 10,000 years ago, and there is evidence of the practice bub- bling up independently in ancient civiliza- tions from China to the Southwest U.S., but the lagers, ales, porters and stouts we drink today are derived from styles estab- lished in Europe – and they came to most of us via colonization. The problem the British were facing in the early 1700s was how to get their beer in drinking condition to their far-flung colonists. Brewers knew that ale would turn sour in casks on the four-month ocean voyage through tropical and equa- torial heat en route to Asia. They also un- derstood that spoilage could be mitigated by boosting the amount of alcohol and hops, the bittering agent that also acts as a preservative. But that boost alone wasn’t enough to result in a hoppy pale ale; most of the beer being shipped eastward was darker porter, the libation of the British working and soldiering class. “Over time, the beers being taken to India evolved,” says food and beverage writer Ruvani de Silva. “The recipes were finessed into something lighter and better suited to the heat.” Still, there was not one specific type of ale bound for Bombay or Calcutta. British beer historian and author Martyn Cornell says various ales made by multiple brew- ers were referred to generally as “pale ale for India” or “pale ale prepared for the East andWest India climate.” It wasn’t until around 1835 that an advertisement for East London’s Bow Brewery “East India Pale Ale,” appears in the record, indicat- ing that a taste for this type of beer had come home to Britain (it never sold well in civilian India). The love affair was tepid and relatively short-lived. English IPAs never eclipsed the popularity of other bitter beers, like mild ales and the classic English bitter, which was essentially a more affordable version of IPA. By the timeWorldWar I spurred a government cap on brewing and increased taxation on beer propor- tionate to its alcohol content, the stron- ger, pricier IPA as Brits had come to know it all but vanished. Those three letters didn’t return to beer-vernacular prominence until the early 1980s inWashington State’s Yakima Valley, where home-brewer and craft beer pioneer Bert Grant was about to start a revolution with his locally (over) hopped ale. “It was the template for a boom in very hoppy beers,” says Cornell. “Grant called it an IPA. No one who knew any better was there to correct him.” When the Sharmas tasked master brewer and consultant Alan Pugsley of Pugsley Brewing Projects International with creating their Rupee IPA, he drew on his personal experience at the famed Ringwood Brewery in the Southern England county of Hampshire in the early 1980s. “Due to my English heritage and their heritage, I set out to make a tradi- tional English IPA,” he says. “It’s a lost style, like many classics, in the U.S.” They call the result an English-Indian IPA, a beer that is not overwhelmingly bitter or strong (only 5.6 percent alcohol by volume; many American IPAs check in at 7 percent and above). The hops feature more in the aroma, which yields to a pleasant, balanced sweetness and a smooth finish that, like all Rupee beers, is designed to pair well with spicy vindaloo and chana masala. On the back of the can, which is avail- able in four-packs at various national chains, including Total Wine, and at inde- pendent stores and Indian restaurants in 14 East Coast states, the Sharma brothers tell the true story of the style, closing with the proclamation that “Rupee is putting the India back in India Pale Ale!” They acknowledge it’s a bold claim in a country where some drinkers may not know what “IPA” stands for. “There’s this sort of disconnect in thinking of IPA as British and Ameri- can,” says de Silva, who is of South Asian descent. “It’s not necessarily a pleasant connection with the subcontinent. Colo- nizing, stripping the land of its assets, terrorizing and massacring the popula- tion. When we see the story of IPA, it has a double-edged meaning. Rupee is trying to tell this story while incorporating Indian cultural history.” In many ways, Rupee’s mere existence is a stand against theWestern beer estab- lishment. According to an audit con- ducted by the Brewers Association, which represents craft breweries in the U.S., only 2 percent of craft breweries are owned by people of Asian descent. Rupee is not only a presence infusing Indian culture into American beer, it’s also a beacon for South Asian emigrants who want to see them- selves in the products they consume. “They represent our values,” says Ankit Desai, owner of UncorkedWine & Spirits, which operates six stores in theWashing- ton, D.C. area and carries Rupee. “South Asians own a lot of wine and beer stores. I’m Indian. I come from that culture. A lot of our clientele is South Asian. We pro- mote the brands we feel connected to.” Thus far, the promotion seems to have paid off. Less than a month after Rupee released its IPA, Sumit reported that the company had already sold out of preor- ders. The instant popularity has pushed the Sharmas to make the style they expected to be a seasonal Diwali release a year-round flagship alongside their origi- nal lager. And the brothers say the place they’ve seen the biggest splash is in Indian restaurants. “Our on-premise vendors are saying that their Caucasian customers have been asking for an IPA,” says Sumit. “This prod- uct has filled a void.” -Special to TheWashington Post By Tony Rehagen Sumit and Vanit Sharma, brothers and owners of Rupee Beer, brew and package their beer at The Dorchester Brewing Company in Boston. Rupee Premium Beers. Patrick Shultz, packaging manager, checks labeling on Rupee’s Basmati Rice Lager cans. Photo:Sasha Israel forTheWashington Post Photo:Sasha Israel forTheWashington Post Photo:Sasha Israel forTheWashington Post